Flying Adventure: Mozambique Zimbabwe – Day 3 (FQVL – FQBR – FQQL):

We are to proceed further up north. Originally we had planned to visit Ilha do Fogo today. However, the airstrip on the island is not serviceable at the moment. Instead we have arranged to land at Pebane on the coastline. That airstrip has just been reopened less than a week ago by the owners of Ilha do Fogo and the nearby Pebane Fishing Lodge. But then things turned different.

Vilanculo to Beira

Vilanculo is normally a safe place to refuel and well stocked. He was however aware that Avgas was in short supply at the moment across Mozambique. It was therefore not too much of a surprise to find out that there was no fuel available at Vilanculo. But he was prepared for that scenario and we planned in a stop at Beira to refuel before heading up north.

It started off well and as planned. Flight plans filed to Beira and onwards direct to Pebane, the destination for the day. After some small talk with other aviators on the airfield, we were ready for take off and on our way to Beira.

It was another beautiful day to fly along Mozambique’s unending coastline. The mood was great, the spirits high. For now.

Beira to Quelimane

As we arrived at Beira, things started to change a little. The Briefing Office at Beira had unilaterally cancelled our onward flight plan to Pebane. They claimed the airstrip may not be open, and we would have to fly to Quelimane, where a permit to fly onwards to Pebane would be issued. He tried to negotiate for a flight plan direct to Pebane and that we would call Quelimane on the radio for onward clearance as we get closer. No success. The gentleman, or better, the not-so-gentle-man insisted that we must land at Quelimane and obtain a permit at the local Briefing Office. It seemed non-negotiable.

We re-fueled and as law-abiding citizens, pilots and tourists we took off to Quelimane. The last time we were up here, we flew up north to Malawi. The route further up along the coast was new territory and we were both excited.

Onwards to the toilet

After landing at Quelimane we went to the Briefing Office to file that flight plan to Pebane. Pebane was not on our original Flight Clearance issued in Maputo. That was simply because at the time we applied for that clearance, the Pebane airstrip was not yet open. But we had confirmation from the owners and operators of the airstrip that it had in the meantime been opened. In addition, he spoke to a local charter operator who mentioned that getting a permit on route should not be a problem.

But the not-so-gentle-man at the Briefing Office had none of it. Zero. He claimed that if the airstrip was indeed open, then he would have been there to inspect it, and that he had not been there. That’s pretty much were the conversation ended. And the fun for this day too.

There would be many many many better places to stay over than the town of Quelimane. Over a beer at the pub outside the terminal building we check for some accommodation options, and eventually agreed to give Villa Nagardas, a bed and breakfast with some reasonable reviews, a try. After another beer a taxi eventually pitched to take us to town and off we were. Luckily, or un-luckily, Villa Nagardas had free space for a night.

They also had a nice garden with a restaurant on the premises where we sat down for a few beers and dinner. It was at this place, on this day, where he had his first, and last “Grilled Fish Zambezia style” ever!
A few hours later his peaceful sleep was abruptly interrupted, not once, but countless times to get that friggin’ fish back up the throat and out of the system. A process which is not silent, not silent at all.