Flying Adventure: Mozambique Zimbabwe – Day 4 (FQQL – FQNP – FQLU):

It was a rude awakening to day 4. He delayed getting up by a few hours. The process of disposing that “Grilled Fish Zambezia style” into Quelimane’s wastewater system must have woken up guests in all the other rooms of Villa Nagardas. He was not really keen on seeing these guests over breakfast. Nor seeing breakfast at all for that matter. But most importantly it was to ascertain that the system has sufficiently stabilized to an acceptable and safe fitness to fly. After all we want to fly up to Mozambique Island. And missing that for another night in Quelimane would be as horrible a prospect as throwing up “Grilled Fish Zambezia style” for another night.

Quelimane to Lumbo

With the current shortage of Avgas, we have planned a re-fueling stop in Nampula. On the way we decided to fly along the coast and then past Pebane to check out where today should have started, had things gone according to plan the day before.

From Pebane we set course through the interior to Nampula. The landscape up here in the north is very different to the south where the land is mostly just flat. It rocks more up here, with all these rocky outcrops dotted across the scenery.

From Nampula it is a short 45-minute flight to Lumbo, from where we proceed by car and then boat to our final destination for the next 2 nights.

Arrival at Lumbo Airport

As we arrive overhead Lumbo we battle to locate the airfield. Normally in a surrounding like this it should be easy to make out a runway. A straight flat strip in an otherwise overgrown open field. Not so at Lumbo. The runway and taxiways are completely overgrown with dense grass up to a meter high.

It is very clear that nobody has landed here in many months. And despite the airport officially being managed by the Airports Company of Mozambique, it has been completely neglected. Not even basic maintenance and upkeep has been done here.

As we overfly the airfield, he works out an option to land on a few patches of tarmac between overgrown bushes of meter long grass, and how we should be able to also take off again in two days. With those plans at hand, we touch down and cut some grass whilst taxing to the apron.

As we unload the aircraft an elder gentleman passes him a mobile phone. On the other end is a guy from the airports company in Nacala. Seemingly very surprised that someone flies into Lumbo. He points out, in dead earnest, that Lumbo was a disused airfield and was not open. We could therefore not come to Lumbo and must return to Nampula, or Nacala. In response he notes that the airfield does indeed appear to be disused. But we had valid permits and flight plans to fly to Lumbo and thus at least officially the airport was open for use. And apart from that, we had already landed and will only return to Nampula in two days. With that fact clarified, we are good to proceed.

Mozambique Island

From Mozambique Island it’s about a 40-minute boat ride to Coral Lodge, where we will stay over for the next two nights. Coral Lodge is a stunning place to stay and hang around. The beach cottages have all direct access to a sea. Facilities are in excellent condition, very well equipped and the service and hospitality is outstanding. A real gem of a place.

On day 5 we head out to the island to explore this historic place. When Vasco da Gama landed here in 1498 the island was ruled by sultan Ali Musa Mbiki. It is from sultan Musa Mbiki where the name Mozambique was derived from. The Portuguese settlers then built a port and a naval base, and the island became the capital of then Portuguese East Africa. It was also at that time, in 1522 when the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte was built, which is the oldest European building in the Southern Hemisphere.

The most impressive structure is however Fort Sao Sebastiao, which was also built during the 16th century. It successfully defended the island from two Dutch attacks in the early 17th century.

As we walk through the Fort we spot a few guys with paint in their faces, indicating that some sort of basic restoration work is being done. But from the obvious looks of things that seems to be progressing slower than the decay in some areas.

With more effort and investment, the Mozambique Island could be developed into something similar to the old town of Cartagena in Colombia. On the other hand, that may also make it lose its unique charm.

Unexpected update on Lumbo Airport

After a tour around Fort Sao Sebastiao, we stop at the beach for a couple beers. It was then when the gentleman from Nacala airport suddenly contacted him again. He mentions that he was at Lumbo to ensure a safe departure for us and when we would be coming back. We confirm the departure time for the next day to meet at the airport and of course appreciate any effort to make our departure less challenging. Our realistic expectation was some non-sensual negotiations about petty things before we can take off tomorrow morning.

Anyhow, such things leave him unperturbed. More exciting is the sunset drink awaiting us back at Coral Lodge. Time to enjoy and relax.